Recall….again
Step 1: Give your dog a place to go.
Get that hand down at muzzle level every time. That’s the target. At first, there is going to be a treat in that hand. A VERY high value treat. Will you always have to have that treat in your hand? NO. But for a young dog training this for the first time YES. There’s two reasons for the hand. It is the place for your dog to go. Putting your hand in this position is a visual cue and can cut through the distractions. Second, when your dog comes to the hand, guess what, their collar is right there for you to grab.
Step 2: Call your dog
Give them a loud poppy cue. “Sam COME”
Rule 1: Only call them once.
This is SUPER IMPORTANT, You’re only going to say “Sam Come” once. Let me repeat that. YOU ARE ONLY GOING TO SAY “Sam COME” ONCE. So it has to cut through ALL the background noise and get right in their brain. It has to have some “Pop”. It has to be high pitched. Dogs rely first on smell, second on sight and only third on sound. So pronounce every letter, hard C, make it pop. Make it high pitched. “Sam COME”
Step 3: Make sure your dog knows what you want
Start with a regular 6’ leash at home with no distractions. If they come, treat them with a handful. If they don’t come, don’t call again, simply reel them in and give them a tiny treat. Why? Because coming to your feet always needs to be a good thing. Do this over and over until they are 95%+ successful. Now you are sure they know the command.
Rule 2: Use high value treats
You know what your dog loves. Now is the time to splurge on some cooked chicken chunks or beef cubes. This is a hard behavior to train so make sure the motivation is as high as possible.
Rule 3: Don’t get angry when they don’t come
It just makes them want to stay away. Be patient. Always be a good place to be.
Rule 4: Release them after they get the treat 9 times out of 10
If you always end their play when they come, it makes them want to avoid coming to you.
Rule 5: Every repetition has to be successful
Do I say come 10 times before he comes? Does he ignore it when he’s doing something interesting? Does he get away with just coming close? I have allowed that to be the recall. When really what the recall is, is coming right here to my feet, when I call, no matter what he is doing. What we settle for is what becomes habit. Practice does not make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect. They are on a leash. You are in control. Every rep can be perfect.
Step 4: Increase distance
In your yard or a quiet park:
Move to a 15’ leash. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Move to a 30’ leash. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Step 5: Add distractions (still on a long leash)
Add a person. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Add more people. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Add a dog. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Do it in a busier park. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Step 6: Remove the leash (in a fenced area).
We’re going to give them the place to go and the poppy cue. If they ignore us we are going to walk after them until we can get them by the collar. Be patient. Don’t get angry and don’t talk to your dog. Eventually, your sternness and determination will un-nerve them and you will get your hand on the collar.
Walk them calmly back to where you called them. Small treat (Rule 3)
Release them (Rule 4)
Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Step 7: Increase distance (Still in a fenced area)
Find a larger fenced area. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Step 8: Add distractions (Still in a fenced area)
Add a person. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Add more people. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Add a dog. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
Do it in a busier park. Work up to 95%+ success, then…
You are done.
Our goal is to convince our dog that they will end up at your feet 100% of the time when you call. This is a form of learned helplessness that could save their life. Arguably the most important behavior you will train.
Training gear I actually use
Gentle Leader Head Collar
Small: https://amzn.to/431qzvc Medium: https://amzn.to/4o8BNqb Large: https://amzn.to/4npzduC
Halti Head collar (Padded nose band).
Size 0: https://amzn.to/47aqbgo Size 1: https://amzn.to/3LsxoQg Size 2: https://amzn.to/4nhe4mh Size 3: https://amzn.to/4o86N9B Size 4: https://amzn.to/49ly8k8 Size 5: https://amzn.to/4nu6IMt
Safety link for head collars (Attaches head collar to regular collar).
For Halti or Gentle Leader https://amzn.to/3WTUVft
Easy Walk Harness (Effective front pull harness to reduce pulling).
Small: https://amzn.to/3WorySs Small/Medium: https://amzn.to/3Jp6nMX Medium: https://amzn.to/4o8DzHR
Medium/Large: https://amzn.to/4qoqPOV Large: https://amzn.to/431slwm X-Large: https://amzn.to/49k2dR1
Poop Bags: 600, unscented.
https://amzn.to/49mobmx
Shepherd’s Whistle:
https://amzn.to/4qvm0mR
Beef Liver Training Treats
https://amzn.to/3LeqZYS
Dog Collars & Halters Guide.
Applied Guide: Collars & Halters by Scenario
Flat Collar
✅ Good for
Dogs that are already trained to walk on a loose leash.
Everyday wear for ID tags.
Small or mellow dogs that don’t pull.
❌ Not good for
Strong pullers (trachea risk).
Dogs that lunge at triggers (can cause choking).
Escape-prone dogs with narrow heads.
Martingale (Limited Slip)
✅ Good for
Escape-artist breeds (greyhounds, whippets, huskies).
Dogs that slip flat collars but don’t pull excessively.
A balance between security and comfort.
❌ Not good for
Heavy pullers (still applies neck pressure).
Owners who leave collars on unsupervised (can catch).
Choke Chain (Slip Collar)
✅ Good for
Honestly, few cases—historically used for competition obedience with handlers who knew how to apply quick, fair corrections.
❌ Not good for
Everyday use (too risky for neck injury).
Novice handlers (high chance of misuse).
Small dogs, brachycephalic breeds, or dogs with neck/throat issues.
Prong / Pinch Collar
✅ Good for
Large, strong pullers when handler strength is limited.
Dogs that need clear, low-pressure feedback.
Short training sessions under supervision.
❌ Not good for
Dogs with anxiety or fear issues (can worsen stress if misused).
Public perception situations (parks, classes — people may judge).
Leaving on during play or crate time (can snag).
Head Halter (Gentle Leader, Halti)
✅ Good for
Large, strong pullers (e.g., golden retrievers, labs).
Dogs that fixate on triggers (turning the head breaks focus).
Owners needing mechanical leverage without force.
❌ Not good for
Dogs that lunge suddenly — risk of neck injury.
Dogs who panic with face straps (need desensitization).
Long-leash or flexi-leash use (unsafe if dog hits the end).
Harnesses
Front-clip
✅ Good for
Teaching loose-leash walking.
Dogs with trachea issues (toy breeds, brachycephalics).
Reactive dogs—helps redirect pulling.
❌ Not good for
Dogs with deep chests/long legs (can rub armpits).
Off-leash reliability training (doesn’t discourage pulling once learned).
Back-clip
✅ Good for
Comfortable everyday wear.
Small dogs, puppies, or seniors with neck sensitivity.
Running, hiking, long-line training.
❌ Not good for
Dogs that already pull — reinforces “sled dog” effect.
Situations where handler needs leverage.
Dual-clip
✅ Good for
Owners who want flexibility (front for training, back for casual).
Double-ended leash setups for maximum control.
Transitioning from “management” to “trained walking.”
❌ Not good for
People who want simple, fast gear.
Budget-conscious owners (usually pricier).
Electronic Collars (E-Collars / Stim Collars)
✅ Good for
Long-distance recall reliability (off-leash hiking, fields).
Working dogs (hunting, SAR, service dogs needing proofed behaviors).
Handlers trained in low-level stim use.
❌ Not good for
Novices without proper instruction (high fallout risk).
Dogs with fear/reactivity problems (can intensify).
Areas where legality/public perception is a concern.
👉 So the real-world formula is:
Start with management (front-clip harness, head halter) while you train.
Upgrade to flat/martingale once trained.
Reserve prong/e-collar for special cases, with skill and fairness.
Choke chains belong in history books, not on dogs.
5 things that are hurting your dog training
Repeating Cues: Saying “Sit…sit…SIT” just teaches your dog that you don’t mean it the first (or second) time. Don’t say it if you aren’t going to enforce it.
Neglecting Exercise: A bored, under-exercised dog cannot focus on training. Burn energy BEFORE asking for focus.
Getting angry when your dog won’t come. Your dog will quickly learn to stay away. Teach recall on a long leash so you can guarantee the recall and be a happy place EVERY time they come to you.
Getting angry when you catch your dog going to the bathroom in the house. They will quickly learn to hide it. You blew it. Be proactive and get them out frequently and reward them anytime they relieve themselves outside (not under a roof).
Avoiding all negative consequences for bad behaviour. Your dog will just learn to gamble. Instead mark the behaviour (clap + ”HEY”) and use non-aversive punishments like withholding treats, praise, or attention.
Keeping your dog safe in hot weather
Make it stand out
🐾 Keeping Your Dog Safe in Hot Weather
When the summer heat rolls in, your dog feels it too — often more than you realize. Unlike humans, dogs can’t sweat through their skin to cool down. They rely on panting and a limited amount of sweat through their paws, which means they’re more prone to overheating and heatstroke. Here's what every dog owner should know about keeping their pup safe during the hotter months.
1. Know the Signs of Overheating
Watch for these symptoms:
Excessive panting or drooling
Bright red tongue or gums
Vomiting or diarrhea
Lethargy or confusion
Collapsing or unresponsiveness
If you notice any of these, move your dog to a cool area immediately and contact a vet.
2. Avoid Midday Walks
Walk early in the morning or later in the evening when temperatures are lower. Hot pavement can burn paw pads — if it’s too hot for your hand, it’s too hot for their feet.
3. Provide Shade and Fresh Water
Always make sure your dog has access to clean, cool water and a shady spot. For outdoor dogs, this is non-negotiable.
4. Never Leave a Dog in a Parked Car
Even with windows cracked, a car can become a death trap in minutes. It’s not just unsafe — it’s illegal in many places.
5. Be Cautious with Exercise
Dogs still need mental and physical stimulation, but it may need to happen indoors on hot days. Puzzle toys, training games, and brief shaded walks are safer alternatives to fetch under the sun.
6. Consider the Breed and Age
Short-nosed breeds (like Bulldogs, Pugs), senior dogs, puppies, and dogs with thick coats are at higher risk. Be extra cautious with them in warm weather.
7. Cool Down Safely
You can help your dog cool down with:
A kiddie pool or gentle hose spray
Cooling mats or damp towels to lie on
Frozen treats like ice cubes or dog-safe popsicles
Final Thought
Hot weather doesn’t mean you have to stop all activity — just adapt. Your dog trusts you to make safe choices. When in doubt, choose the cooler, quieter option.
Stay safe and have a great summer with your dog!
Off-Leash Dog Training: Stay, Down, and Recall Without Yelling
A calm, early morning routine with my golden retriever Sam—no leash, just trust. We practice sit-stay, recall, walking together, and polite door manners—all off leash. It’s not about control—it’s about connection. Dog training doesn’t have to be loud or chaotic. It can be thoughtful, peaceful, and mutually respectful.
Door dashing…
“Does your dog bolt out the front door the second it opens? Here’s a simple, effective way to stop door-dashing — without yelling, yanking, or using any commands.”
The Method
Clip your dog on leash.
Open the door wide.
If your dog tries to dash out, calmly pull them back inside and close the door.
Wait a few seconds.
Repeat.
That’s it. No talking. No scolding. No bribing.
Within a few reps, your dog will realize: ‘Bolting gets me nowhere. Waiting gets me outside.’ Most dogs figure this out in 2 to 10 tries — and the habit sticks.
Why It Works
It uses natural consequences — going outside is the reward.
If the dog lunges, the reward disappears. That’s called “negative punishment” (THAT’s a type of “Punishement”? Who knew!), and it’s completely non-aversive.
The dog learns directly from the environment, not from your voice or emotion. That makes the learning faster and clearer.
Lasting Benefits
Sets a calm tone for the whole walk.
Teaches impulse control through experience, not force.
Transfers to better leash manners and handler focus.
And it builds your dog’s confidence through predictable, fair outcomes.
Wrap-Up
“Let the door teach your dog what behavior works. No drama, no conflict — just calm, clear consequences. Try it today, and enjoy walks that start off right.”
Is it a correction or a reinforcement?
When you’re trying to determine what reinforces your dog’s undesirable behavior, you’re basically asking: What is the dog getting out of this? That’s smart and foundational for real behavior change. Here’s a practical step-by-step process, followed by how to check if your corrections are accidentally acting as reinforcers instead.
🔍 Step-by-Step: Identifying Reinforcers for an Undesirable Behavior
1. Describe the behavior clearly
What exactly is the dog doing? (e.g., barking at the window, jumping on guests, bolting out the door)
When does it happen? What triggers it?
2. Observe the consequence of the behavior**
What happens immediately after the behavior?
Is the dog getting something (attention, access, stimulation)?
Is the dog avoiding something (discomfort, confinement, boredom)?
Behavior that continues (or increases) is being reinforced — somehow.
3. Look at the environment
What predictably precedes the behavior (antecedents)?
Is there a pattern? (Time of day, people around, sounds, energy level?)
4. Make a hypothesis: What is the reward?
Ask: “What’s the function of the behavior?”
Social? → Attention from people or dogs.
Sensory? → Feels good to bark, dig, chew, run.
Escape? → Avoids being confined, scolded, or restrained.
Access? → Gets to food, toys, open space.
5. Test it
Remove the suspected reinforcer: e.g., ignore attention-seeking barking.
Or modify the environment: e.g., prevent access to window if barking is self-rewarding.
See if the behavior decreases.
🧭 Are Your “Corrections” Actually Reinforcers?
Sometimes, what we think is a correction (like yelling, pushing, or a leash tug) can become reinforcement if:
1. It gives the dog attention or stimulation
Yelling “No!” might be exciting.
Pushing a dog off can feel like play.
2. It functions as negative reinforcement
If the dog acts out and the pressure stops (like barking causing a leash correction to end), the dog learns, “That worked!”
3. The dog is under-stimulated
Any response from you—even negative—might be better than nothing.
✅ How to Know for Sure
Track the behavior: Is it getting worse, more intense, or more frequent? That means it’s being reinforced (even if unintentionally).
Try changing your response: If ignoring the behavior or changing the context makes it decrease, the original “correction” was probably reinforcing.
Use video: Review clips to spot patterns you're missing in real time.
💡 Bonus Tip: Ask Yourself
“What’s the dog getting or avoiding when he does this? And how am I reacting?”
“Thoughtful” Fixes for Smart Owner Mistakes
Smart people overthink. Dogs observe. Here's how to meet in the middle.
Smart dog owners love to analyze. But that same intelligence can lead them to miss what their dog is actually learning.
If you're making the #1 mistake—overthinking instead of observing—here are three thoughtful fixes to help you rebalance your approach.
✅ 1. Stop Explaining — Start Noticing
Instead of asking “Why is he doing this?”
Ask: “What just reinforced this behavior?”
Dogs repeat what works for them, not what makes sense to you. So shift your focus from motive to mechanics.
Try this:
Keep a short log after every walk or training session:What did the dog do?
What happened right after?
Did I reward that on purpose… or by accident?
This builds awareness, not just information.
✅ 2. Use Patterns, Not Lectures
Dogs don’t need to be told what they did wrong.
They need a pattern of outcomes.
Try this:
Open the door wide, don’t say a word. If your dog dashes to the end of the leash, calmly pull them back in and close the door. Rinse repeat. It will take 3-10 times and they will wait for you. The reward is built in…they get to go out.
Pause your walk every time your dog pulls, without a word.
Mark and treat quiet alerting, not just barking.
Consistency = clarity. Clarity = trust.
✅ 3. Reframe Resistance as Confusion
If your dog “won’t listen,” don’t assume they’re being defiant.
Assume the pattern isn’t clear yet.
Try this:
Add a long leash when a dog ignores a recall — not as punishment, but to simplify the choice.
Lower your criteria. Reward the attempt, then build up.
Remove distractions while you rebuild reliability.
The goal isn’t control. It’s understanding.
Final Thought
You’re not failing your dog by being thoughtful — only by assuming your thoughts are enough.
Observe more. Explain less. Reinforce what works.
That’s the path to a truly thoughtful partnership.
🐾 The #1 Mistake Smart Dog Owners Make
(And What to Do Instead)
Smart dog owners are often the most frustrated ones.
They read the books.
They follow the accounts.
They want to do right by their dogs.
And still… their dog jumps on guests.
Still… the recall disappears at the park.
Still… the leash is a tug-of-war.
So what gives?
🤯 The Mistake: Overthinking Instead of Observing
The #1 mistake smart dog owners make is trying to out-think the dog, instead of watching how the dog learns.
They assume:
“He knows this already.”
“She’s doing it to be stubborn.”
“He’s testing boundaries.”
But here’s the truth:
Dogs aren’t plotting. They’re pattern-matching.
🧠 Smart People, Human Logic
Smart owners are used to complex thinking. They want to understand before they act. That works at work, with people, or in theory. But dogs aren’t logic-driven. They’re:
Associative learners
Present-focused
Experts in patterns and outcomes
They don’t care what your intention was.
They care what actually happened.
🐶 What Your Dog Actually Noticed
Let’s say your dog jumps up. You push him down, say “No!”, and step back.
You think:
“I told him not to.”
He thinks:
“Jumping = touch + sound + excitement. Noted!”
Smart dogs don’t need lectures.
They need clarity.
They need consistency.
They need you to observe more and explain less.
🔁 Shift from Thinking to Watching
Want better behavior? Start watching more than you explain.
Try this:
Notice what your dog finds rewarding.
(Even yelling can be a reward.)Reward what you like. Interrupt what you don’t.
Don’t assume intent. Look at the outcome.
Dogs repeat what works for them.
✅ Bottom Line: Be a Scientist, Not a Philosopher
You don’t have to outsmart your dog.
Just out-observe yourself.
At Thoughtful Paws, we believe dogs are observant opportunists. That means your dog isn’t being bad — they’re being efficient.
The more you observe, the more you’ll notice:
They weren’t ignoring you. They were learning from you.
Aggression and Reactivity Revisited.
A more robust way to look at dealing with aggression is to use this method to eliminate causes. Here’s the visual. Got questions?
Loose Leash Walking Step 1
If you can’t get out the front door in a calm fashion, there is no way you can expect your dog to pay attention on a walk. So step one is Joel Beckman’s Doorway method. Here is Sam and I working on it.